In Tamil Nadu, ‘panakam’, jaggery water flavoured with cardamom and dry ginger powder, heralds the start of summer. Raw mangoes are used to make ‘kairi panna’, a sweet-sour drink that is a favourite across the country, flavoured variously with elaichi, black salt and jaggery. ‘Sabja’ or ‘balanga’ seeds (sweet basil) are found in local markets and used to make summer staples – homes would have whole clay pots of cool water with these seeds soaked in them, to which a twist of lime, rose syrup or a sprig of mint is added for flavour. Sweet basil seeds are also used to cure dyspepsia and form a base for rooh afza, a popular summer drink said to have been brought to India by the Persians. And of course there is the ever popular lassi and its variants – chaachch in the west, neer moru or salla in the South – and enjoyed both sweet and salted!